Here we will discuss sample development and the associated costs. You might start with a simple sketch, a technical drawing, a reference sample or a techpack. The more prepared and concise you are with your design, the less likely you are to run into design issues and incur extra costs down the line.
Sample development usually goes through a few stages. The best case scenario is that you can perfect your samples within three stages: prototype, first sample and production sample. Usually this best scenario happens when you have a detailed, pattern ready tech-pack.
Tech pack
A tech pack is short for ‘technical packet’ and is a blueprint of your garment. You can read more about them here. They are an essential part of the sampling process and without one you may be spending more time and money to create additional samples until your design is perfected. If you are able to produce technical drawings yourself then you can create your own tech pack, although many people hire a professional due to the complexity and importance of this document. Good techpacks can start at $300 and go as upwards as $600 depending on the intricacy of the design and what is required. Typically techpack prices can be negotiated when you order multiple designs in one project.
Pattern Cutting
Once you have your techpack ready, the pattern maker will use the information to review the complexity of the design. Will it be lined? Does it have pockets, collars or sleeves? How many seams are there? Will you need a fitting before cutting in fabric? All of these are deciding factors that can affect the cost of creating your pattern. Pattern costs can range $75 – $350 and it is the most important aspect in the production of your design. Once the sample pattern block is approved, then the pattern maker will grade it according to your size range. At TIALS Studio we sometimes grade up to 5XL depending on the needs of our clients. We are capable of creating a pattern a day.
Pro tip: Once you have your base patterns you can also create variations of it and save costs in the future.
Prototype + Fitting
This is the initial fit of the design with the purpose to perfect the shape and construction. A prototype is usually made in muslin fabric or a fabric similar to the end fabric in order to minimize your costs. This especially applies to a design that uses premium fabrics, limited/imported fabric or has any embellishments and printing. During the fitting process, the final fabrics and trims are also presented and reviewed for approval. If revisions need to be made to the fit, the prototype will be revised until it is perfect. This effort will ensure that the first sample will not have to be re-made. At TIALS Studio, the prototype is included in the pattern cost.
Sampling
The first sample will be created according to the specified fabric and trims. It’s essential that it’s made in your final fabric, otherwise, the hang of the garment will be wrong. This may also include printing, custom dyeing, embroidery, sequins and embellishments. Do note that Materials and trims are more expensive during sampling stage as not buying in bulk
Sometimes you may require another sample if you decide to change fabric or a design feature so any changes to the design in this stage means going through the quoting process again. Otherwise once everything is approved this sample will be used to re-confirm and finalize the production cost. The “Production Sample” will also be created which is the one approved for production.
Pro-tip: Samples will always be more expensive than production as it is a one-off item that has never been made before which is why sample costs are usually 2-2.5x the estimated production cost.
As a designer you may also change your mind in the creative process in any part of the sampling stage and for these amendments we suggest to allow a 40% buffer for your budget.
Here at TIALS Studio we can help you at any stage of your sample development process, as well as with branding, digital marketing and more. Get in touch with us today and see how we can help your brand.
Want to know more about costing? We provide custom quotations tailored to your business here.
